The Long Road to Bormio
“Oh, thank Christ we’re finally here.”
That was my first thought on arriving, solo, into Bormio last summer. We’d ridden all the way from Davos in eastern Switzerland—almost 150km and five cols over 2,000m. By the end of the day, it had become a war of attrition: us against the road and the wind.
Having crested the Foscagno pass and somehow lost my riding partners on the descent, I was purely delighted to make it to the hotel near the town centre. My appreciation only grew over the following days as we explored the mythical roads surrounding this Italian outpost in the far north.
A Sanctuary for Sore Legs
Bormio isn’t just the gateway to the Stelvio and the Gavia—it’s an alpine sanctuary where the recovery is just as legendary as the climbs. Long before cyclists were grinding up 10% gradients, Roman aristocrats were making the trek to Bagni Vecchi and Bagni Nuovi to soak in the thermal waters. Today, those same baths remain the ultimate post-ride ritual for anyone looking to soothe their legs after a day in the high mountains.
The heart of the town beats in Piazza Cavour and along the narrow, cobblestoned Via Roma. Once a vital trade link between Venice and Switzerland, Bormio’s medieval core feels like a living museum. It’s the kind of place where you can lean your bike against a centuries-old stone wall while you sip an espresso and watch the locals go about their day.
Living the Olympic Legacy
Bormio recently featured on its biggest stage yet in February 2026, hosting the alpine skiing events for the Winter Olympics. Whether it’s on two wheels or two skis, this town is built for performance. Our hotel was situated at the foot of the Stelviopiste—the very run used for the medal-winning downhill charges you likely saw on TV earlier this year.
Most of our time, however, was spent going uphill. Our host, Daniele (nicknamed “Stelvioman” for the sheer number of times he’s summited), helped us navigate the local legends. He introduced us to the “Big Three”: the Gavia (The Queen), the Stelvio (His Majesty), and the Mortirolo (The Bastard). You’ll understand that last nickname soon enough.
His Majesty: Conquering the Stelvio
We tackled the Stelvio on our first full day, rolling out in warm sunshine onto the lower slopes that begin almost the moment you leave town. It is a masterpiece of engineering. The first 8km average 7% before the road turns right into the first of many, many hairpins. This stretch leads to the first Galleria—tunnels built to protect the road from slides. Pro tip: bring lights. The tunnels aren’t pitch black, but being visible is non-negotiable.
The road steepens as you pass through more tunnels before reaching the view of “The Wall,” where hairpins snake up a seemingly sheer rock face. Thankfully, the gradient stays manageable through these ten switchbacks. The relief at the top is matched only by the views back down the valley.
After a brief 3km “breather” at 5%, the final push begins. The last 3km kick up to nearly 10%. Combined with an altitude of over 2,500m, your body will start to protest. We reached the summit just as the clouds rolled in, deciding against the Umbrail descent—a wise choice, as heavy snow blanketed the pass later that afternoon.
The Bastard: Facing the Mortirolo
The following day, we faced “The Bastard” and “The Queen.” The Mortirolo is unlike anything I’ve ever ridden. We chose the classic route from Mazzo, and the stats are terrifying: 12.2km at an average of 10.8%, with pitches reaching 17.7%.
Because the climb is mostly wooded until the final 2km, you rarely get a sense of progress. It offers plenty of time to contemplate your fitness levels and your general sanity. If you want a slightly “kinder” experience, the route from Grosio is 12km at 9.9%—just ducking under that magic 10% mark.
The Queen: The Wild Beauty of the Gavia
The descent toward the foot of the Gavia at Ponte di Legno is stunning—a welcome chance to use gears other than the 34×32. From the south, the Gavia is essentially a “goat track” that rises 1,500 vertical metres in just under 20km.
The stats don’t do it justice. The road winds through shaded pine forests before breaking into alpine meadows filled with cows, horses, and goats. The road hugs the mountain like a ribbon of pasta, getting better with every metre of elevation.
Note: The tunnel a few kilometres from the top is pitch black. Do not enter without lights. Once you emerge, the altitude hits hard for the final push to the summit. Reward yourself with the legendary cake at Rifugio Boneta before the long, awesome descent back into Bormio.
Tackle all three in summer 2027
If you have the legs for these three legends, you can ride them all on our Bormio and the Stelviopass Tour in mid-July 2027. It’s one of our flagship Classic Climbing Tours, designed for those who want to experience the best of the Italian Alps. You can also combine this with our Maratona dles Dolomites week.
What I’ve been listening to while writing
Joshua Idehen Playlist
An old friend of mine sent me this playlist, and I can’t stop listening to it. As my mate put it in his note to me:
“Just a beautiful mix of The Streets and Fred Again, with a Linton Kwesi Johnson type approach but more so just himself. A wonderful poet speaking his voice with a gorgeous blend of uplifting house with a hint of gospel”
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