Easy – head to Bormio straight afterwards
How do you top the sheer high-altitude drama of the Maratona dles Dolomites? Easy: drive four hours west to Bormio and throw yourself at the holy trinity of Alpine cycling—the Stelvio, Umbrail, and Gavia – with a side dish of cinematic switchbacks up to Lago di Cancano.
Here is how our post-Maratona epic unfolded.
Escaping Corvara & Rolling West
It all started early on a Monday morning in July. The group was admittedly battered after tackling the Maratona the previous day, but we dragged ourselves out of bed and loaded up the van. Early starts are non-negotiable here; if you’ve ever tried leaving Corvara on the Monday after the event, you know the valley transforms into one giant, gridlocked parking lot.
Luckily, we hit clear roads all the way down to the autostrada. We were well on our way before pulling over near Bolzano for a proper roadside espresso and breakfast. The weather was pure perfection – crisp, clear, and matched only by the quality of the Italian coffee.
We made incredible time, sweeping up through Prato to take the Stelvio Pass over into Bormio. Having never driven this direction before, I quickly learned a valuable lesson: taking the long Borne Cycling van up 48 tight hairpins is a task better left to smaller vehicles – or substituted for the Umbrail route! Nevertheless, we crested the pass without any major drama alongside the usual swarms of motorhomes and motorbikes.
By early afternoon, we pulled up to the fantastic Hotel Funivia, greeted with the warm Italian hospitality we’ve come to love. After checking into our rooms and grabbing a light lunch, it was time to swing a leg over the bikes for a leg-warmer spin.
Hairpin Heaven: Warming Up at Lago di Cancano
Our afternoon warm-up took us up the Passo di Fraele toward Lago di Cancano. It proved to be an absolute masterstroke. The road was practically deserted – pure bliss for hairpin enthusiasts. With steady, forgiving gradients, it felt like our own private alpine playground.
The climb tops out at 1,942 meters, passing beneath the striking medieval Torri di Fraele before revealing the turquoise expanse of the Cancano lakes. The mountain air was brisk, but that didn’t stop Piers from diving straight into the ice-cold water to show off his open-water technique!
We retraced our steps back down the switchbacks, rolling into the hotel with plenty of time for a sports massage and a massive four-course dinner. We turned in early – we needed every ounce of sleep for what lay ahead.
The Alpine Horseshoe: Stelvio, Umbrail & Swiss Gravel
We woke to dream conditions: wall-to-wall sunshine and not a breath of wind, though the midday heat was guaranteed to bite later. We were rolling before 9:00 AM, spinning out the lactic acid on the lower slopes of the Stelvio. Our target wasn’t the summit just yet, but the turnoff for the Umbrail Pass, perched roughly 3 kilometers below the top.
- The Ascent: Spanning dense forests above Bormio, rugged rock cuttings, sweeping galleries, and dark tunnels, the route opens up to massive waterfalls and high alpine pasturelands dotted with grazing cattle.
- The Verdict: It might be heresy, but climbing this side of the Stelvio edges out the “classic” Prato route in terms of pure beauty and variety.
Reaching the Swiss border at the Umbrail turnoff was a welcome sight. We grabbed extra wind jackets and ride snacks from the support van before plunging down the flawless Swiss tarmac.
Pro Tip: The Umbrail descent to Val Müstair is bucket-list territory. The road surface is silk-smooth—right up until you hit unexpected roadworks.
Just as I joked to the group about getting some gravel practice in, my rear tire went flat. Classic caller’s curse. A swift tube change had us rolling again within minutes, sweeping down through the valley toward Glurns, where the support crew was waiting with a feast in the shadow of the ancient town church.
The 48 Switchback Slog
Leaving lunch, the heat hit like a furnace. We now faced the iconic climb up the Stelvio Pass from Prato. The mercury touched 37°C on the lower ramps, and at climbing speed, there was zero breeze to rescue us.
A lifesaving pitstop at a shaded vending machine stocked with ice-cold drinks reset our temp gauges. Recharged, we tackled the legendary final 10-kilometer wall of hairpins.
Those switchbacks look stunning on a poster, but under a scorching afternoon sun above 2,500 meters, they are pure grit. With tired legs and screaming lungs, the reverse-numbered hairpin markers became our mental lifeline, counting down every agonizing turn until the summit appeared.
The entire group conquered the top. We traded weary congratulations, pulled on wind shells, and took on the glorious, sweeping descent back into Bormio – flying down the very ramps we’d dragged ourselves up hours earlier.
Showers, cold beers, another epic meal, and a recovery massage made sleep come very easily that night.
Queen Gavia: The Grand Finale
The original itinerary called for the Mortirolo and Gavia double-header. However, after a massive week in the Dolomites and the heavy miles on the Stelvio, the unanimous (and celebrated) consensus was to focus solely on the Passo dello Stelvio’s majestic neighbor: the Gavia.
Don’t let the “just” fool you. The Gavia from Bormio is a beast, spanning 25 km up and 25 km straight back down. While the average gradient sits at an innocent 5.4%, hidden inside are sustained kilometer-long stretches exceeding 13%.
Despite the stats, it proved to be the crown jewel of the trip. The weather held, giving us a gentle tailwind on the lower ramps. The Gavia fully earns its title as the Queen of the region – wild, lonely, rugged, and regal. It avoids the busy tourist traffic of the Stelvio, offering absolute serenity. Near the top, where the gradient finally eases, the only sounds breaking the silence were marmots whistling across the meadows and our own heavy breathing.
At the summit (2,621m), we snapped the mandatory pass-sign photos and savored hot Italian espressos before turning back toward the valley. A ferocious headwind on the upper ramps forced us to pedal hard even on the downhill sections, but once we hit the steeper drops, the speed returned along with the warm valley air.
Our final evening was spent over a celebratory farewell dinner, sipping exceptional local wines and plotting our return.
Ride Bormio with Borne Cycling
Ready to tackle the iconic passes of Bormio yourself? Check out our 2027 Bormio Alpine Tour, or drop us a line to build a custom bespoke itinerary for your club.
Multi-Trip Discount: Planning to ride the Maratona with us? Tag the Bormio week onto your trip to claim an exclusive multi-tour discount. Get in touch with the team today to secure your spot!
