If you know Betteridge’s law of headlines, you’ll expect the answer to be a firm no. But I recently went back to Alpe d’Huez for the first time in about eight years, and I was pleasantly surprised, both by the climb and by Bourg d’Oisans, the town at its foot.
A Confession From a Hipster Cyclist
I’ll be honest with you. For years I thought Alpe d’Huez was overhyped. Being a bit of a hipster cyclist, I was convinced there were far better, more obscure places to ride than this busy, “boring” climb.
But this summer we ran a trip covering the classic climbs of the Tour de France, and you can’t run that trip without riding the Alpe. So back I went.
Warming Up Along the Romanche
We arrived in Bourg d’Oisans fresh from the Col de Joux Plane and some lesser known gems around Samoëns and Morzine. It was mid morning on a stunning early summer day.
Before tackling the climb, we headed out for a warm up along the River Romanche. I strongly recommend this. Don’t hit the lower slopes cold! We rode about 3km out of town, crossed to the right bank and rolled back towards the foot of the climb. That gave us a good 20 minute leg opener, which we were grateful for the moment we hit the 10% ramp that welcomes every rider to the Alpe.
Seeing the 21 Hairpins Through Fresh Eyes
Riding with our guests gave me a whole new perspective on why this climb is so special. I loved watching their excitement as they approached each of the 21 numbered hairpins, calling out the famous winners’ names on the signs. Hairpin 21 at the bottom honours Fausto Coppi, alongside the rather more controversial Lance Armstrong.
I’d also forgotten the character of the climb. The first three kilometres are brutally steep and quickly lift you away from the valley. Then the gradient eases off, giving you a chance to catch your breath, shift up a gear and spin your legs.
Riding past the village of La Garde, I remembered an unscheduled stop in a roadside toilet during the Marmotte years ago, thanks to some “stomach issues.” Thankfully, this visit was far more pleasant.
Dutch Corner and Those Views
I realised I was enjoying myself. As the hairpins came thick and fast, I rode alongside one of our guests, matching his rhythm and encouraging him up through the village of Huez and past Dutch Corner. It was a lot quieter than on Tour day!
The views are spectacular, too. That was another thing I’d forgotten.
A Climb for Everyone
On the way up to hairpin 1 we passed quite a few riders, which is a novelty for me. It shows just how many different people come here, from elite racers to holidaymakers on hire bikes giving the famous climb a go.
Of course we stopped for podium photos near the top. By the time we crossed the official Tour de France finish line, I’d completely changed my mind about this legendary climb.
The Verdict
Are there “better” climbs in the area? Probably. But I’d been unfairly prejudiced against the most famous climb in cycling. Alpe d’Huez deserves its reputation.
More Great Climbs From Bourg d’Oisans
If you’re staying in Bourg d’Oisans, here are a few more rides to add to your list:
- Col du Sabot: A dead end climb just around the corner. Take the road to Vaujany and keep going until the road runs out. Total wilderness, and almost no cars.
- Col de Sarenne: Not so hidden anymore, but still wild and wonderful. It brings you out just above the resort of Alpe d’Huez. I once had a tyre blowout descending it and was lucky to stay upright!
- Col du Glandon and Col de la Croix de Fer: You can ride both in one long day from Bourg d’Oisans. The summits are only a couple of kilometres apart, so if you’ve done one, it’s easy to tick off the other. Expect huge climbs and stunning scenery.
- La Bérarde: Not a col, just a beautiful dead end valley that’s perfect for a rest day spin. Take the road to Saint Christophe en Oisans and keep going.
Ride the Alpe With Us
You can ride all of these on our Classic Climbs of the Tour de France week in summer 2027. Or if you’d like a bespoke tour built around your own bucket list climbs, just get in touch.
