We have a running joke in our household concerning rock formations, and how interesting they are to adults, and how massively boring they are for children.

So whenever I’m riding along somewhere new, or different from where I normally ride, and I see some incredible glacial striation, or sedimentary rock layers, I have to think twice before expressing my wonder.

Thankfully most people I’m riding with are older than my children and either join in with my wonder, or at least don’t flat out tell me that I’m a boring old man.

I say all this because I was constantly amazed by the landscape on our Southern Alps trip back in late June this year.

It all started with a climb up to the highest point of the trip and the Col du Galibier. As I’ve previously written, this was a pretty hellish day weather wise. But one thing that climbing into strong wind and rain does do, is it gives you time to look around and marvel at the surroundings.

The climb of the Col du Télégraphe takes you up through shady forests and is just a warmup for the real test that is the Galibier.

Leaving Valloire I misremembered quite how steep the long drag is to the turn at Plan Lachat. As I said though, the massive vistas (which thankfully we could see as the cloud level was much higher) helped take my mind off the climb.

The name of the Galibier apparently comes from galaubié, a provençal word for ravine. And off to the right of the road we could see numerous large valleys and ravines carved by the rivers feeding La Valloirette river.

The high section of the Galibier is truly stunning, and we had giant snow walls to make the ride even more impressive. But that wasn’t quite enough for me and I resorted to singing on my way up to try to get through to the top. Luckily for my fellow riders I was by myself at this point.

The Galibier is a real natural boundary between the Northern and Southern Alps – passing as you do from the Savoie into the Hautes-Alpes department.

I wasn’t that focused on the scenery on the descent, as I was concentrating on not freezing to death and the subsequent tyre change on the way down the Lauteret.

However, once we’d had lunch and kept on heading south towards Guillestre it became very noticeable how both the mountains and the trees looked different. This became even more evident when we reached the blue waters of Lac de Serre Ponçon.

*Tour de France peleton passing Lac de Serre Ponçon in 2024*

This lake is a real jewel of the alps. It was created in 1959 by the construction of a huge dam on the Durance river and has a surface area of 28km2, the largest artificial lake in France. It is a watersports centre in the summer months, and tourism is well managed here as only 13km of the 90km shoreline are developed, meaning that a lot of the lakeshore is truly wild.

Our second day riding took us into the real wilderness of the Mercantour National Park. The route we took going over three >2000m cols was breathtaking – both literally and figuratively. Whilst I didn’t manage the whole of the final climb of the Cayolle – this road is incredible. Waterfalls all around, stunning rock formations (yep!) and marmottes whistling everywhere.

Day 3 took us back northwards, passing over the Col de Vars and the Col d’Izoard. The sun shone showing both of these spectacular cols in their very best light.

Vars is very much out in the open and winds its way 15km up the valley, sometimes doubling back to give great views right back to where we’d ridden from – demonstrating that yes, we were actually making progress even if it didn’t always feel like it.

The descent is incredible, and was much needed as my power levels were pretty depleted. But it was hard to keep my eyes on the road, as there was true natural beauty all around.

We then passed through (and ate lunch in) the lovely Gorges de Guil. Well worth a visit.

The last and hardest climb of the whole trip (for me) was up next. The Col d’Izoard is legendary and the ascent from Les Moulins was brutal.

At one point of the climb of the Izoard I actually climbed off my bike and had to sit on a bench for a few minutes and consider my life choices. This was following a brutal ramp of around 11% through Brunissard.

It was very peaceful there, enjoying the forest and the quiet road, and it took quite an effort to get back on the bike. I knew that I had to get to the top to experience one of the most stunning and unique cols in the alps.

The sepia coloured spires up in the Casse Déserte on the Izoard are surreal, even more strange than the landscape on Mont Ventoux. It is really unlike anywhere else in France.

It is an iconic location of the Tour de France and features a famous monument to Fausto Coppi and Louison Bobet. Apparently, it stands where Coppi watched the tour pass on his honeymoon in 1953, with Bobet shouting “Thanks for coming!” to him as he passed by on the way to victory.

Our final day on our tour took us into Italy and towards Mont Cenis. But for me the real highlight was the Col d’Echelle. Taking this col avoids the busy road via Montgenèvre and is unmissable. Really quiet and forested, the climb is never too difficult and cresting the col we rode through beautiful woodland before descending with an incredible view of valley towards Bardonecchia.

Being able to experience all of these varied landscapes and to feel a long way from our comfort zone here in Geneva was brilliant.

Whilst the climbing is hard, the rewards are more than worth it.

And if you find yourself riding beside me when the mountains and rocks look particularly interesting, just nod and agree when I start waxing lyrical.

Book your spot on our 2025 Southern Alps trip here.

What I’ve been listening to while writing

Tyler, the Creator – Chromakopia

His 8th album and a real masterpiece. Just listen to an artist in full flow and right there in mid-genius.

Just look at the stunning rock formations

Lose Yourself